The eternal cuisine of ROME
Gelato, Rome’s quintessential sweet, is available on most street corners, but devotees should head for Il Gelato di San Crispino, probably among the finest gelaterie in all of Italy.
Pasquale and Giuseppe Alongi make exquisite ripe-fruit and berry flavors in summer; phenomenal citrus, pear and banana in winter. Custard versions come laced with Marsala from producer Marco De Bartoli, Armagnac, or rum. The Calvados sorbetto is good, too. The signature gelato is a custard sweetened with arbutus-berry (corbezzolo) honey. No artificial colorings are used, and so most choices are paler than conventional ice creams, but packed with far more taste.
Specialty gelati made from imported fruits include one made from pink grapefruit and another of pineapple flown in from the Ivory Coast at Christmas. San Crispino is open from 3pm until 1am six days a week; from noon on Sundays and holidays.

- November 1996 -